Q.
I have a 'Blaze' rose that had a severe case of black spot. Even
though we treated it, it has lost most of its leaves. Also, only the
top third of it bloomed well. Is there a reason for this? If so, can
I do something about it, or should I get rid of it? I like the
climbing rose and would like to plant another in the same place.
What do you suggest?
A.
Black spot is the most common and severe disease that rose growers
have to face. Its development is favored by rain or overhead
irrigation (leaf wetness), high humidity and moderately warm
temperatures for several consecutive days.
Black spot is
characterized by round black leaf spots that have feathery margins.
Infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely. Roses can be
completely defoliated by severe infestations. Flowers, fruits and
canes are also affected. Symptoms on canes appear as purplish,
irregularly shaped blotches.
The causal
fungus, Diplocarpon rosae, overwinters on fallen leaves and infected
stems. The initial infection in spring happens when rain splashes on
fallen leaves or canes that are infected, releasing spores that land
on new growth and start the cycle over again.
Black spot has
many cycles of infection through the growing season, as long as
weather conditions favor disease development. Consequently,
protective fungicide applications must be made through the growing
season. A single treatment in the spring will not keep black spot at
bay for the entire growing season.

It is likely
that the severe infection kept your rose from blooming as much as it
should. Repeated defoliation weakens plants because they cannot
undergo photosynthesis without leaves. Without photosynthesis, they
cannot produce the carbohydrate reserves necessary for proper growth
and flowering.
A multipronged
approach to controlling black spot works best. You could choose to
replace your susceptible 'Blaze' (red) rose with a climber that is
more resistant such as 'New Dawn' (pink). Remember that resistance
is not immunity. Even resistant roses can become infected if
infected roses surround them, and weather conditions are favorable
for black spot development.
Good garden
sanitation is also important. Clean up fallen leaves promptly and
prune out infected canes in early spring to reduce the amount of
fungal fruiting bodies present. Use drip irrigation, soaker hoses or
a watering wand to water the soil while keeping the foliage as dry
as possible.
Finally,
repeated fungicide applications are very effective at keeping roses
free of black spot. Daconil (chlorothalonil), Dithane (mancozeb),
Systhane (myclobutanil), Bayer Advanced Disease Control (tebuconazole),
Cleary's 3336 (thiophanate methyl), and Funginex (triforine) are
labeled to control black spot on roses.
Organic growers
can use sulfur-based fungicides such as Sulfur Guard from Gardens
Alive. Repeated fungicide applications should be made as long as
weather conditions favor disease development. Follow label
directions regarding how often the fungicide you are using should be
applied, typically 10- to 14-day intervals. You can stop making
fungicide applications during hot, dry weather.
LINKS
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