PLANTING
LAWNS
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When we talk about a house having "curb appeal", few things contribute as
much as a beautiful home lawn. We can't always control the
amount or type of topsoil we must work with, but we can choose top quality
grass seed and make adjustments to the chemistry of the soil.
With a new
home, it's usually necessary to plant the lawn as soon as construction has ended, even if
the season isn't conducive to growing grass. When there is a choice, fall
(September) is the best time to seed and spring (April) is the second best.
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Fall is best time to plant a lawn in Pennsylvania
Most people
are surprised to hear that fall planting is better than spring. For one thing,
spring plantings face much more weed competition. But more importantly, as soon as
spring-planted grass is up and growing, it has to face the rigors of summer heat and dry
weather. Fall planted grasses have both the fall season and spring season to
grow and mature before facing summer heat.
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With
the above considerations in mind, here are a few of the basics:
Start
early by sending a soil sample to a lab for analysis. Your
lime and
fertilizer
requirements will be outlined in their written report.
Locate
utility lines, and especially any shallow wires (TV cable), before digging. Call
1-800-242-1776 at least one week before digging to get utility lines marked; usually this
service is free to homeowners.
Never
"work" soil when it's wet. Tilling or cultivating wet soil can ruin the
soil structure. It also makes your work much more difficult.
Pay close
attention to grading. Soil should be sloped away from foundations and graded to
prevent low spots that will puddle. Consider adding a french drains at the base of
steep slopes, and other areas where there is poor surface runoff.
Final
lawn installation:
>> Finish grade the lawn with topsoil if possible. Remove rocks and other debris
that will impede good growth.
>> Apply lime and fertilizer according to your soil test results. In lieu of a
soil test on Pennsylvania lawns, apply per 1,000 square feet: 50 pounds of agricultural lime, 10 pounds
of 10-30-10 starter fertilizer (or equivalent), and grass seed at the recommended rate.
There are different types of grass seed varieties for specific areas [cool
season] [warm season].
>> Mulch the lawn surface with one of the following:
Mushroom manure - Great for lawns - use a thin coat
Straw - Use the "cleanest" weed-free
straw you can find at a "3-straw thickness" (straw is the least expensive
mulch)
Professionals also use Hydroseeding or 'Penn Mulch' ---
both methods use green-colored paper to hold moisture.
Watering
your new lawn now
becomes the most important part!

New sod lawns require regular
watering to aid establishment
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Straw often
contains some weed seeds. The rye straw (above) had seedheads causing
some rye (coarser blades) to grow along with the new grass seedlings.
Mowing will eventually kill this weedy rye.
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SOD
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If you
are sodding a lawn instead of seeding, follow the steps listed above with the following
exceptions:
When
finish grading, leave the grade one-inch lower along walks, driveways and similar
areas to allow for the thickness of the sod.
Buy the
best grade (#1) of sod available. If sod arrives stacked on a pallet, try to lay it
out as soon as possible. Cover palletized sod with a tarp (to help keep the sun and
wind off) until you get it laid.
Green
side up! (-;
Try not
to stretch the sod while laying it, in fact, bunch it up and keep the seams
butted together as tightly as possible. Fill any gaps on the edges with shredded and
screened topsoil to help hold moisture. Exposed edges dry out the fastest.
Make your
cuts with a sharp bowie knife, hatchet or square-nosed spade.
Water sod
thoroughly and often (every day or two) to aid establishment. Curb edges dry out the
fastest.
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See our
Sod webpage
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Sod folded and stacked on shipping pallets
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Individuals and companies within our service area are
invited to contact us for a lawn improvement quote
CONTACT DONNAN
LANDSCAPE
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LawnBoss.net for
specific lawn care information |