RENOVATING A LAWN |
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Sometimes a lawn is so poor that it's time for the sod cutter!Back in the 1980's, we used to renovate lawns using a dethatcher and aerator as our main machines. Most of the time, these problem lawns were experiencing a heavy build-up of thatch, often over 1-inch thick. The problem with lawns that have that much thatch is that the grass roots into the thatch layer instead of the soil. Therefore, it was difficult to ever remove enough thatch to really make a difference. |
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At some point we realized that these heavily thatched lawns needed one
machine to correct the condition -- our sodcutter! This 1-step
process accomplished the "dethatching" in one swoop, whereas before, we
would have to repeat the dethatching and aeration three or more times
over several years,
and overall improvement of the lawn would be delayed. |
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Photos of a complete lawn renovation |
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This thin,
weak turf was heavily thatched and contained some warm-season varieties
of turfgrass that made the lawn look worse than usual during the dormant
season from late fall through late spring.
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Sodcutter used to cut strips of sod 18-inches wide. You can usally rent a sodcutter for $70 - $100 per day. Due to their heavy weight, you may want to pay for delivery and pickup. Otherwise plan to use a sturdy ramp and pickup truck to haul one. |
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On most lawns you want the depth set to remove only the thatch layer without taking any extra soil along. Sod cutting can be preceded with a spray of glyphosate (1-week prior) to help eliminate weedy grasses. Read and follow label instructions. |
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Check cutting blade depth occasionally as you work. In special situations with weedy grass, you will want to cut the sod extra thick. |
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The sod has all been removed and the lawn area is ready for shredded topsoil to fill low spots and smooth-out the lawn surface. It required 3 trips with a small dump truck to get rid of all the sod from this lawn. |
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The sod cutter was only able to get within a few inches of the front walk, so the remaining narrow strip of sod of each side was removed using a grub hoe. |
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Since grass wasn't growing well around the big Oak tree at the corner of the lawn, we decided to mulch that area instead of reseeding it. Another solution would have been to plant groundcover. |
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Soil has been raked out and lightly compacted next to the sidewalk. Walking over it with your feet is usually enough to provide compaction and prevent settling, but a weighted roller can also be used on larger areas. |
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Now that lime, starter fertilizer and grass seed has been applied, it is time for the mushroom manure topdressing. Our part of Pennsylvania has mushroom mines close enough that we can buy mushroom compost at local landscape supply yards. Another less desirable solution is clean straw. |
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Mushroom manure tends to keep birds away from the seed, as well as providing weed-free organic matter that can be left on the new lawn. It also favors spot-seeding, which should be done after 3 weeks on any thin or weak areas. |
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Finishing the Job |
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NOW WATERING BECOMES THE MOST IMPORTANT PART! Sunny areas, curbs and edges require closer attention when watering a new lawn. As seed starts to come up it will show you which areas need to be watered more frequently. It's best to water in the morning. Complete lawn watering instructions |
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Lawn pages: |
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